Jannetty Racing Enterprises, Inc | 203-753-7223
About UsStoreResourcesServicesFAQContact Us
Performance Store JRE 12v Dodge Cummins Power Package Installation 
Product Search
Garage Sales
Dodge Performance Parts
Ford Performance
bar
GM Performance Parts
bar
Visa - Mastercard - Discover | Accepted Here
US & Canada Shipping
Drag Racers Log Book
Print it and take it to the track!
Gear Ratio/Tire Size, Compression Calculator
Optimum Shift Point Calculator
Snowmobile Gear Change Calculator

step01.jpg (33543 bytes)

1. From the factory, the 12-valve 5.9L Cummins in-line turbocharged and intercooled engine in’94 to mid ’98 Dodges produces 180 horsepower and 420 ft-lb of torque in automatic form,  215 horsepower and 440 ft-lb of torque with the manual. In only a couple of hours, horsepower can be increased by 180 ft-lb or more-without adversely affecting fuel economy or reliability.


step02.jpg (8787 bytes)

2. Compare the stock cam plate (left) with the Stage II Jannetty cam plate. The cam plate is what controls the fuel curve, which, in turn, directly affects the horsepower / torque curve of the engine. Which profile Jannetty recommends depends on the truck and its intended application.


step03.jpg (16815 bytes)

3. The first step to replacing the cam plate is to remove the EGR valve flange bolts so the valve can be placed aside (California only).


step04.jpg (18684 bytes)

4. Next, disconnect the rubber coupling between the intercooler discharge tube and the intake manifold.


step05.jpg (16496 bytes)

5. The six bolts that secure the intake plenum to the cylinder head are removed next, and the manifold placed aside.


step06.jpg (20905 bytes)

6. The main fuel line (located on the side of the injection pump) is disconnected by removing the 19mm "banjo bolt" (arrow) which attaches the line to the pump with two sealing washers. These are loose, so be careful not to drop them.


step07.jpg (18781 bytes)

7. The upper left corner of the air fuel control (AFC) housing uses a break-away bolt from the factory (it resembles a rivet head) so the cam plate within cannot be tampered with. To remove it, Jannetty recommends drilling the head with a 1/8-inch drill, then driving a #20 Torx bit into the hole. This way it can be removed easily with a ¼-inch drive ratchet. Jannetty supplies a factory-type break away bolt for reassembly, but since Duttweiler was still experimenting with this truck at press time, a standard fastener was used. Here, the fastener is accessed by slipping a long extension and deep socket between the maze of injector lines.


step08.jpg (17673 bytes)

8. Here. The AFC housing has been removed and the plate exposed (arrow). The plate itself is secured by two flat-head screws.


step09.jpg (17713 bytes)

9. Here’s the Jannetty Stage II plate installed. The cam plate is supplied with an aluminum guide plate that enables proper location of the cam plate by referencing off of the original.


step10.jpg (14954 bytes)

10. The bleed orifice fitting installs in place of the original barbed fitting, which is located in the original barbed fitting, which is located in the rear portion of the AFC housing (In some vehicles, the fitting is located on the compressor housing of the turbo). It contains a tiny orifice in the side of the fitting that bleeds off the boost pressure signal to the waste gate, increasing turbo boost. The small set screw regulates the amount of bleed; it is pre-set by Jannetty for the application and locked in place.


step11.jpg (17303 bytes)

11. To replace the injectors, the EGR tube must be removed first, followed by the engine nameplate.


step12.jpg (16832 bytes)

12. The injection lines are loosened at both the injection pump and the injectors themselves.


step13.jpg (18074 bytes)

13. A small retaining bolt and the two bolts that retain the engine preheater wires are removed next.


step14.jpg (15728 bytes)

14. The group of injector lines can then be removed as a unit and placed aside. Be very careful during the removal and installation process that these lines do not bent or kink, or become contaminated with foreign matter.


step15.jpg (11650 bytes)

15. Next, the injector fuel return lines must be removed from the row of injectors. These are even more delicate than the injector lines, so again, be very careful not to bend them.


step16.jpg (16110 bytes)

16. The injectors can now be loosened and removed, being careful to remove the brass washer under each injector as you go.


step17.jpg (8233 bytes)

17. Here is the JRE high flow injector, which is the largest recommended for either automatic or manual trans-equipped trucks. These look identical to the original 180hp injectors; the difference being the size of the orifices in the injector tip. Before installing the new injectors, put a dab of grease on the brass washer to hold it in place.


step18.jpg (16996 bytes)

18. The first step is to disconnect the drive shaft at the pinion yoke, then unbolt the center support. The drive shaft can then be removed as normal. Next, the drive shaft can then be removed as normal. Next, the inspection plate on the bottom of the transmission bell housing is removed, exposing the flex plate teeth. The engine can be rotated by inserting a large screwdriver, you can also turn the engine by one of the four bolts that secures the harmonic balancer to the front of the crankshaft.


step19.jpg (9131 bytes)

19. Only one of the two holes (the larger of the two) in the front of the adapter plate of the trans is an inspection plate that allows access to the converter bolts. Turn the engine until a bolt can be felt inside the hole, then insert a 5/8 –inch socket and extension through the hole to remove the bolt. There are six converter bolts in all.


step20.jpg (11740 bytes)

20. Once all the converter bolts have been removed, you can move on to the transmission cross member. The nuts that secure the transmission tail shaft studs to the cross member are removed first, then the rear of the transmission is supported with a jack.


step21.jpg (5447 bytes)

21. The cross member itself is secured to the frame with eight bolts, the heads of which are accessed through holes in the frame.


step22.jpg (12388 bytes)

22. You can elect to remove the small linkages, lines, etc. in the beginning of the transmission removal, or wait until just before the transmission is removed (if you’ve never done this sort of thing before, we would recommend you do the small stuff first so you don’t forget). Here, the transmission lines are removed with 15/16 and ¾-inch open-end wrenches. The shift linkage must also be removed (it’s the same as on any TorqueFlite-equipped Mopar).


step23.jpg (10639 bytes)

23. The transmission kick-down cable must also be disconnected at the throttle body (shown). This cable runs down along the top of the transmission, and has a fuel line clamped to it. Make sure you remove the clamp before you drop the trans, or you’ll drag the fuel line down with it. This is a bad thing.


step24.jpg (14200 bytes)

24. The rear of the transmission is lowered, which provides a straight shot at the bell housing bolts. A ½ -inch drive ratchet and a very long extension are used to access the bolt.


step25.jpg (20458 bytes)

25. Once all the bolts, lines, linkages and the like are removed, the transmission can be lowered.


step26.jpg (19769 bytes)

26. Unlike a Mopar passenger car, the TorqueFlite behind the Cummins uses a separate flexplate that attaches to the crankshaft.


step27.jpg (15478 bytes)

27. It is unlikely that you will have access to a nice transmission jack like this one, but if you do, or you place the transmission on a narrow bench, make sure you have a friend hold the rear of the transmission while you pull the converter off. The sudden removal of weight from the front of the transmission will cause it to "teeter" rearward.


step28.jpg (11076 bytes)

28. The Pro Torque torque converter looks similar to the stock piece, except that it has a lower stall speed, improved torque multiplication / efficiency, and beefed internals to handle the rigors of a hopped-up Diesel.

Home | About Us | Store | Resources | Services | FAQ | Contact Us | Site Map
© 2016 Jannetty Racing Enterprises Inc.
Terms of Use
Performance Parts
Web Site Created by InfrontWEB
Home Site Map