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1. From the factory, the 12-valve 5.9L Cummins in-line turbocharged and intercooled engine in’94 to mid ’98 Dodges produces 180 horsepower and 420 ft-lb of torque in automatic form,  215 horsepower and 440 ft-lb of torque with the manual. In only a couple of hours, horsepower can be increased by 180 ft-lb or more-without adversely affecting fuel economy or reliability.

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2. Compare the stock cam plate (left) with the Stage II Jannetty cam plate. The cam plate is what controls the fuel curve, which, in turn, directly affects the horsepower / torque curve of the engine. Which profile Jannetty recommends depends on the truck and its intended application.

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3. The first step to replacing the cam plate is to remove the EGR valve flange bolts so the valve can be placed aside (California only).

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4. Next, disconnect the rubber coupling between the intercooler discharge tube and the intake manifold.

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5. The six bolts that secure the intake plenum to the cylinder head are removed next, and the manifold placed aside.

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6. The main fuel line (located on the side of the injection pump) is disconnected by removing the 19mm "banjo bolt" (arrow) which attaches the line to the pump with two sealing washers. These are loose, so be careful not to drop them.

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7. The upper left corner of the air fuel control (AFC) housing uses a break-away bolt from the factory (it resembles a rivet head) so the cam plate within cannot be tampered with. To remove it, Jannetty recommends drilling the head with a 1/8-inch drill, then driving a #20 Torx bit into the hole. This way it can be removed easily with a ¼-inch drive ratchet. Jannetty supplies a factory-type break away bolt for reassembly, but since Duttweiler was still experimenting with this truck at press time, a standard fastener was used. Here, the fastener is accessed by slipping a long extension and deep socket between the maze of injector lines.

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8. Here. The AFC housing has been removed and the plate exposed (arrow). The plate itself is secured by two flat-head screws.

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9. Here’s the Jannetty Stage II plate installed. The cam plate is supplied with an aluminum guide plate that enables proper location of the cam plate by referencing off of the original.

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10. The bleed orifice fitting installs in place of the original barbed fitting, which is located in the original barbed fitting, which is located in the rear portion of the AFC housing (In some vehicles, the fitting is located on the compressor housing of the turbo). It contains a tiny orifice in the side of the fitting that bleeds off the boost pressure signal to the waste gate, increasing turbo boost. The small set screw regulates the amount of bleed; it is pre-set by Jannetty for the application and locked in place.

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11. To replace the injectors, the EGR tube must be removed first, followed by the engine nameplate.

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12. The injection lines are loosened at both the injection pump and the injectors themselves.

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13. A small retaining bolt and the two bolts that retain the engine preheater wires are removed next.

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14. The group of injector lines can then be removed as a unit and placed aside. Be very careful during the removal and installation process that these lines do not bent or kink, or become contaminated with foreign matter.

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15. Next, the injector fuel return lines must be removed from the row of injectors. These are even more delicate than the injector lines, so again, be very careful not to bend them.

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16. The injectors can now be loosened and removed, being careful to remove the brass washer under each injector as you go.

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17. Here is the JRE high flow injector, which is the largest recommended for either automatic or manual trans-equipped trucks. These look identical to the original 180hp injectors; the difference being the size of the orifices in the injector tip. Before installing the new injectors, put a dab of grease on the brass washer to hold it in place.

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18. The first step is to disconnect the drive shaft at the pinion yoke, then unbolt the center support. The drive shaft can then be removed as normal. Next, the drive shaft can then be removed as normal. Next, the inspection plate on the bottom of the transmission bell housing is removed, exposing the flex plate teeth. The engine can be rotated by inserting a large screwdriver, you can also turn the engine by one of the four bolts that secures the harmonic balancer to the front of the crankshaft.

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19. Only one of the two holes (the larger of the two) in the front of the adapter plate of the trans is an inspection plate that allows access to the converter bolts. Turn the engine until a bolt can be felt inside the hole, then insert a 5/8 –inch socket and extension through the hole to remove the bolt. There are six converter bolts in all.

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20. Once all the converter bolts have been removed, you can move on to the transmission cross member. The nuts that secure the transmission tail shaft studs to the cross member are removed first, then the rear of the transmission is supported with a jack.

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21. The cross member itself is secured to the frame with eight bolts, the heads of which are accessed through holes in the frame.

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22. You can elect to remove the small linkages, lines, etc. in the beginning of the transmission removal, or wait until just before the transmission is removed (if you’ve never done this sort of thing before, we would recommend you do the small stuff first so you don’t forget). Here, the transmission lines are removed with 15/16 and ¾-inch open-end wrenches. The shift linkage must also be removed (it’s the same as on any TorqueFlite-equipped Mopar).

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23. The transmission kick-down cable must also be disconnected at the throttle body (shown). This cable runs down along the top of the transmission, and has a fuel line clamped to it. Make sure you remove the clamp before you drop the trans, or you’ll drag the fuel line down with it. This is a bad thing.

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24. The rear of the transmission is lowered, which provides a straight shot at the bell housing bolts. A ½ -inch drive ratchet and a very long extension are used to access the bolt.

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25. Once all the bolts, lines, linkages and the like are removed, the transmission can be lowered.

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26. Unlike a Mopar passenger car, the TorqueFlite behind the Cummins uses a separate flexplate that attaches to the crankshaft.

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27. It is unlikely that you will have access to a nice transmission jack like this one, but if you do, or you place the transmission on a narrow bench, make sure you have a friend hold the rear of the transmission while you pull the converter off. The sudden removal of weight from the front of the transmission will cause it to "teeter" rearward.

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28. The Pro Torque torque converter looks similar to the stock piece, except that it has a lower stall speed, improved torque multiplication / efficiency, and beefed internals to handle the rigors of a hopped-up Diesel.

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